PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS STATE PARK
There is much to see and do in Michigan’s Western Upper Peninsula, including the beautiful Porcupine Mountains. Waterfalls, forest trails, lakes, peaceful camping spots, winter and summer sports activities attract many seeking adventure. The Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park is a main area attraction. I’ve had the privilege of visiting three times and still have not mastered all of this vast 60,000-acre northwoods area.
Disclaimer: this post is not intended to be expert advice. It is for entertainment purposes only. Please take appropriate safety precautions and seek advice from the many expert resources available.
With 35,000 acres of majestic uncut old growth forest and 90 miles of hiking trails, both the novice and advanced outdoor enthusiast will find much to delight. Spectacular waterfalls that leave you in awe, pristine rivers and streams, and breath-taking vistas all make perfect spots to capture one of a kind photos.
Presque Isle River
There are accessible observation areas for Lake of the Clouds, and Presque Isle waterfalls. Near the park entrance along highway 107 there can be seen awesome views of Lake Superior, with places to pull over and soak in the grandeur of nature.
There are many choices for camping, whether you prefer roughing it or something more comfortable.
Check out the park website here for more information on the Porcupine Mountains:
https://www2.dnr.state.mi.us/parksandtrails/Details.aspx?id=426&type=SPRK
Best Time of Year to Visit the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park
The park is open year-round. In winter services are limited, and mostly geared towards winter sports, such as cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Late spring and summer are popular times, but be aware that black flies and mosquitoes are present from mid-May to late July, and sometimes later. A netting suit is very helpful. It can get cold at night even in summer, but that can be a plus, as the mosquitoes are not usually a problem when it is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Mid-October is also a great time to visit but can be very crowded near the Lake of the Clouds, especially on sunny weekends.
Be prepared
This is a true wilderness. You are responsible for your own safety. Pack all necessary essentials, including food and water. Consult maps and plan carefully. Wear appropriate clothing and bring protective gear appropriate to the season. Stay on marked trails, both for your own protection and to keep the Porcupine Mountains wild for generations to come.
Black bears are present in the park and can be unpredictable and dangerous. I have never had a problem, and attacks on humans are very rare. Just remember to be respectful of wildlife and never feed or approach any wild animal.
Porcupine Mountains Visitor Center
Open mid-May to mid-October, this is where you will find park nature exhibits, check-in for backcountry camping, maps and more. The staff are knowledgeable and can assist with questions about trails, water supply, things to do and see, etc. Check out this link for more information such as a park map, camping questions, and winter activities.
https://www.michigan.gov/dnr/places/v-centers/porkies
Lake of the Clouds
This is perhaps one of the most photographed sites in the Midwest. It is accessible from the visitor overlook. It is worth returning in different seasons to view how the landscape changes.
This is a great place to start a hiking journey. There are restrooms available (sorry no running water). The parking lot is large but fills up quickly during peak times such as fall foliage and summer weekends. If you are a registered backpacker, you may leave your vehicle here. There are entrances close by for the Mirror Lake, Big Carp River and Escarpment trails.
Camping Choices
There are many choices, from modern electric and primitive campgrounds to backcountry cabins, yurts and tent sites. These sites can all be booked online up to six months ahead:
Reserve as early as possible for busy times, especially summer weekends and fall foliage peak, usually mid-October.
You will need a park pass, called a recreation passport, in addition to the camping fee. These can be obtained online or at the visitor’s center. Check in at the campground, or at the Porcupine Mountains Visitor Center for backcountry sites.
Union Bay Campground
Here you will find 100 electric sites, and modern restrooms with showers. There are also a few sites with Lake Superior views. Just be aware that the sites are very close together and offer little privacy, but this is a nice choice for an RV.
Presque Isle
This is a primitive campground, meaning no electricity, and only vault toilets. The advantage is that the 50 sites are farther apart, and more private. It’s also near the scenic and wild Presque Isle River, and the three very scenic Manabezho, Manido and Nawadaha Falls. There are also six walk-in sites, that are only 50 yards from the parking lot and can offer even more privacy.
Manido Falls side view
Union River and Lost Creek Outposts
If you are looking for an even more rustic choice, but don’t want to backpack, try the Union River or Lost Creek outposts. Both have three primitive walk-in sites, a short distance from the parking area.
Backcountry Camping
If you crave solitude and nature, this is truly the way to experience the Porcupine Mountains Park. I’m usually a solo hiker and definitely no athlete or expert. I’ve learned so much traveling my own journey, and not letting others discourage me. Ten years ago, backpacking was not something I ever thought of trying, but this park has provided many life-long memories for my bucket list.
More about bear safety! You must keep your food and toiletries either hung on the provided bear pole or stored in a bear cannister an appropriate distance from your site, check park staff with questions.
There are many tent sites and also cabins and yurts along the trails. All must be reserved in advance. Check in at the visitor center, where they will issue you a backcountry permit. You will also need a park pass (recreation passport) for your vehicle. You may park in any lot, it just depends on how far you want to walk.
Cabins and Yurts
Cabins and yurts have no electricity or running water. Your bathroom is an outhouse, be sure to bring toilet paper. They do have woodstoves, cookware and bunk beds with mattresses. This is a nice option for a family, but they all require some hiking, some up to four miles.
Backpacking
As you can see from the photo above, I prefer to “cowboy” camp if the weather is nice (aka camping without a tent). I’ve heard some people say they are too afraid of bears to do this, but really, how is a tent going to keep a bear out? Of course, you can always pack a tent, just be aware of weight for everything you need to carry.
Yeah, I know your family and friends will most likely lecture you on being safe. For a long time, I stuck to day hiking, trying to find a trip partner, etc. Finally, it became clear that I was getting older, and if I wanted to hit some of those bucket list points the time to branch out had arrived. My advice, don’t stress over everything being perfect. Trust me, it won’t be. But that’s OK, and sometimes the reality ends up being better than the dream.
Plan and Research
On my first trip to the Porcupine Mountains, I took on too big of a challenge, packed too much and reserved a campsite that was a little too far away. Then ended up taking a wrong turn and got off the trail. I came out along the Lake Superior shoreline with sunset close behind me. Even though I was not technically lost, it just seemed best to collapse right where I was. Don’t do this purposely! Remember, you are required to register for all campsites, even backpack ones, and stay on marked trails. Luckily, it was summer, and sunset comes pretty late, almost 10:00 pm this far north. It was also pretty warm, so I just pulled on a jacket, inflated my sleeping pad and collapsed. During the night I woke up to a billion stars and one of my best memories.
On subsequent trips I got smarter and learned there are lots of backpack trails that have sites much closer to parking. This one had a great view of Lake Superior and was only a mile from the parking area.
Hiking Trails
With so many trails to choose from the Porcupine Mountains can be a bit overwhelming on your first visit. I really didn’t get the big picture until my third trip. Planning is essential, take some time to decide on the best itinerary for you.
Remember, most of the Porcupine Mountains Wilderness trails are “in and out”, meaning you will need to hike the same distance back as you came to return to your vehicle. There are lots of trails that link up, so it may be possible to take an alternate route, back, but it could still be a long distance. There is no shuttle service in the park. The south boundary road has lots of parking areas for trailheads, as does highway 107 in the northern park area.
Big Carp River Trail
This is a 9.6 mile moderate to rugged trail. Park at the Lake of the Clouds lot. I chose to only hike five miles and camp and site # 4, hiking back the next day. Caution – there is not water this first five miles. The trail parallels the river, but you are on a very high ridge with no way to get down.
If you make it to the end of the trail, there are some beautiful waterfalls. You could take the loop that combines the Big Carp, Little Carp and Mirror Lake trails. This is a total of 21.2 miles. I’d like to return and do these other trails in stages.
Lake Shore Trail
This is a remote and sometimes rugged trail along the shores of Lake Superior. This offers a more secluded hike and is a wonderful choice for some gorgeous scenery. I only had time to go about halfway, camp and then return. It doesn’t really link to the other trails but has quite a few backcountry sites and a few cabins.
Escarpment Trail
Possibly the most beautiful in the park, stunning Lake Superior views can be seen from this trail. Moderate to rugged, it is 4.3 miles long. Unfortunately, the area was fogged in on the day I chose to visit, so I could not get a good photo. Hey, you know I’m less than perfect, right?
Final Thoughts
The staff at the visitor center are very helpful, and can give advice on where to park, best routes, and where to locate water. Be sure to listen and plan!
There is not always water available, so be sure to fill up before setting out. Bring a filtration system of some sort, such as a life straw if you will be near streams or lakes. Make sure to have your hiking essentials and leave no trace. There are many expert resources for planning. Here are just a few:
Michigan DNR (Department of Natural Resources)
Leave No Trace
USFS (United States Forest Service)
Related Post
If you were inspired by this post, check out my review of Western Upper Peninsula waterfalls here: https://dirtundermyboots.com/michigan-upper-peninsula/western-upper-peninsula-waterfalls/
That’s it for now. Until next time, be sure to get some dirt under your boots!
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